2017 | Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey | Batard Montrachet

Description

White Wine: 2017 | Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey | Batard Montrachet

Intense, delivering concentrated flavors of lemon cake, peach, vanilla and clove that are well-integrated with the structure. Vanilla and butterscotch accents linger on the bracing finish.

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Producer: Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey

Ratings: WA | 93-95D | 97

Vintage: 2017

Size: 750ml

ABV: 13.3%

Varietal: Chardonnay

Country/Region: France, Burgundy

Intense, delivering concentrated flavors of lemon cake, peach, vanilla and clove that are well-integrated with the structure. Vanilla and butterscotch accents linger on the bracing finish.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: Pierre-Yves Colin’s greatest wine this year is the 2017 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, which hails from a parcel of 90-year-old vines planted on the Chassagne side that he farms but doesn’t own. Unfurling in the glass with complex aromas of Meyer lemon, nutmeg, honeycomb, dried white flowers, pastry cream and subtle new wood, it’s full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with a layered, broad-shouldered mid-palate, excellent concentration and a long, vibrant finish. Pierre-Yves Colin described the 2017 vintage as “pure and transparent,” with the wines nicely defined by their terroirs. They are, he adds, “more charming than I imagined—less ‘cold’ in style.” Old vines, he says, produced notably more interesting musts than younger plantings, an observation borne out along the Côte. Colin began picking early, on August 28, as usual privileging freshness; though I wonder if a successful experiment with picking his Corton-Charlemagne a little later than had been his habit suggests that the stylistic pendulum may be about to subtly swing at this address? In any case, he has produced a successful range, true to the strong house style, though showing comparatively little overt reduction when I visited after the harvest. As ever, no distinction is made on the labels between domaine and négociant wines, and Colin is increasingly taking responsibility for farming the parcels from which he purchases fruit.

• Decanter: Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey’s vines are the most northerly on the Chassagne-Montrachet side of the grand cru, planted more than 80 years ago and producing very small, intensely flavored berries. This has all the plushness and power of a great Bâtard, with incredible concentration, but it’s not a tiring wine to drink as the minerality and freshness kick in on the palate too, bringing some crunchy zip to the peach and quince fruit.

Producer Information

Maison Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey is a Burgundy producer based in Chassagne-Montrachet, in the Côte de Beaune subregion. It is known for its fine Chardonnay wines, and has most of its vineyard holdings in Saint-Aubin. The estate was established in 2005 by husband-and-wife team Pierre-Yves Colin and Catherine Morey, both children of esteemed Burgundy winemakers. Colin had been winemaker at his family’s winery since 1995 and in 2001 started a négociant business with his wife. In 2005, he left the family estate to establish his own label with his six-hectare (15-acre) share – the rest of the Colin vineyards remained with his three siblings (Caroline, Joseph and Damien, who run Domaine Marc Colin). Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey has holdings in several premier cru sites in Saint-Aubin and Chassagne-Montrachet including Chatèniere, Champlots, Remilly, Chenevottes and Caillerets. On top of this, the domaine buys grapes to make wines from several grand cru vineyards, including Bâtard-Montrachet and Corton-Charlemagne. The estate predominantly makes Chardonnay, but also produces a small amount of Pinot Noir from Saint-Aubin and Santenay. In the cellar, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey does not employ battonage but favors lengthy lees contact and barrel aging. The wines are bottled without filtration and often without fining.